High fashion beauty is meant to be over-the-top, shocking, and – more likely than not – totally unbearable. So it's not every day that one of these looks goes as viral as Pat McGrathMaison Margiela Couture Spring 2024 porcelain doll makeup. After the show, TikTok was flooded with recreation, “Glass Skin” Removal VideosAnd technical theories all about hyperrealistic, glowing faces. And in the For You Page frenzy, the new generation of makeup lovers seems to have discovered the woman behind this legendary name. “I thought he was a 50-year-old white guy,” a Gen Z designer said in a now-viral TikTok video.
Although she's new among emerging content creators, Pat McGrath should need no introduction: she's been dubbed the the most important makeup artist in the fashion world and was the first makeup artist named Dame in 2020. After gaining momentum in editorial and runway makeup in the early '90s, McGrath worked with design houses like Jil Sander, Prada, Armani, Miu Miu, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano for over 25 years. Her massive influence in the beauty industry led to the 2015 launch of her eponymous makeup and skincare line, Pat McGrath Labs, which has since become a household name. billionaire beauty brand. Whether you know it or not, if you have a makeup routine, it was probably shaped in part by Mother herself.
Ahead, check out 12 more of our favorite beauty looks from the legendary McGrath, which showcase what an innovator and shapeshifter she's long been in the makeup world.
Christian Dior Couture Spring 2004
In 2004, she sent models down the catwalk with golden lips, electrical tape eyebrows and extravagant glitter eyeshadow meant to resemble glamorous and glitzy ancient Egyptian kings and queens.
John Galliano Fall 2007
With penciled brows, intentionally pale foundation, and the illusion of deep-set eyes created by layers of dark, shimmering eyeshadow, this 2007 makeup concept was designed to evoke 1920s flappers.
Christian Dior Couture Fall 2011
Another highlight of Paris Haute Couture Week was this Christian Dior show, where McGrath accessorized the Jetsons-meets-pop-art fashion collection with intergalactic glitter, facial gems and burgundy lips carved.
John Galliano Spring 2011
During John Galliano's show at the Opéra Comique, McGrath worked with hairstylist Julien d'Ys to personalize each model so that no two were exactly the same. Some models sported arched brows and black lips, while others sported metallic blue eyeshadow and a dramatic blush on the tops of their cheekbones.
Christian Dior Couture Spring 2013
In 2013, McGrath gave us a new take on the classic (and often predictable) lipstick. Instead, she used crystals to dazzle the mouths of 46 models.
Alexander McQueen Fall 2014
On the Alexander McQueen catwalk, fluffy lashes reached new heights. Each model wore a custom set of faux feathers consisting of 65 feathers per eye.
Alexander McQueen Spring 2015
Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton specifically asked McGrath for a “solid and lacquered» a beauty look to accentuate this collection. To make the final 35 custom pieces for each model participating in the show, McGrath first handcrafted about 70 different masks to test in different fittings.
Maison Margiela Spring 2016 Couture
McGrath's David Bowie-inspired makeup for Maison Margiela will forever go down in history as an equally touching and innovative tribute, as the show took place just over two weeks after the music icon's death and of fashion. McGrath's graphic zigzag lines, glitter stars, heart-shaped lips and lipstick-shaped tattoos were all meant to capture the essence of the eclectic star, particularly her Ziggy Stardust persona .
Givenchy Spring 2016
McGrath has always found new ways to innovate with unconventional materials – like when she made ethereal ivory masks out of fabric and beads for Givenchy.
Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Couture
McGrath brought the art gallery to the catwalk with references to modern art, abstract line drawings and color blocks for John Galliano's Artisanal collection. The different makeup styles included glossy cheekbones, 3D metallic details and vinyl lips.
Valentino Spring 2019 Couture
For Valentino's Spring Couture floral collection, McGrath used her brand new (at the time) FetishEyes Mascara as well as strips of false eyelashes delicately decorated with petal-shaped feathers.
Marc Jacobs Spring 2020
At this Marc Jacobs show during New York Fashion Week, McGrath created 60 highly individualized makeup looks intended to establish each model as her own unique character in “an idealized interpretation of real life.” Some of the looks included '60s-style pastel blue eyeshadow, shimmering silver clown makeup, and white scribbles drawn directly on the side of a model's face.