Anonymous Club Berlin Spring 2024 Collection

A dozen years ago, no major brand would have chosen a deserted concrete building as the location for a fashion show and sent models dressed in street clothes down the catwalk while loud techno sounds blared in background. In the past, this would all have been classified as part of a subcultural and underground scene, but designers like Shayne Oliver have now brought it into the mainstream. Last night, he closed the first day of Berlin Fashion Week with his new label Anonymous Club, which is also a creative studio and talent incubator. After five minutes of techno beats, the lights finally brightened and the first model appeared on the catwalk. A relatively limited color palette of white, gray and black was brightened up with small splashes of red or blue in the form of rubber gloves or bags. Rubber plays a major role in Oliver's new vision. Models wore all-rubber outfits, rubber boots, jumpsuits and super muscular rubber leggings that almost looked like prosthetics under short, sporty shorts. Hoodies and sweatpants make up the core of the looks, but they're accented with almost ridiculously disproportionate cuts. Some models wore prosaic makeup, while others wore large horned helmets made of hair or hid their faces behind hoods. Oliver's idea: “The people I chose were very big personalities and they influenced me visually. I tried to show you how I see them. The idea of ​​developing unknown characters. Oliver said he wanted to go back to where his fashion language began, even before Hood by Air, and that was the hoodie. “I was like, okay, let me use the fabric and shape of a hoodie and off we go. And basically it was the best thing I could do, it was like a lack of influence,” he said after the show. “There was this purity that really obsessed me, that to do with how pure and imperfect one feels.” Indeed, it wasn't perfect, but that's what made it unique.

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