This month, the cast of Dune: part two (Zendaya! Timmy! Florence!) has been hitting the red carpets to promote Denis Villeneuve's upcoming film — and Christian Siriano's fall collection couldn't be more in sync. This season, the creator took inspiration from the original Frank Herbert novel on which the film is based, looking specifically at its desert terrain and post-apocalyptic ambiance. “I looked at all the old movie posters,” Siriano said, adding that this reference led him to create “soft, drapey, sand-like” designs. This is not a dark collection; there is a lot of richness in there.
Of course, it was a Siriano show, so he had to make the end of the world somehow glamorous. “I started thinking about whether we lived in this post-apocalyptic place and what we would wear for the evening,” Siriano said. “I wanted to explore futurism in a more romantic, less armor-like way.” To do so, he landed on a dusty color palette, focusing on looks of deep reds, burnt oranges, and golden hues. What earth tones lacked in brightness, they made up for with luxe materials, including silky wool suits, metallic outerwear and metallic Lurex dresses.
THE Dune all of this really came to fruition through tailoring. Siriano, often known for his voluminous and theatrical silhouettes, wanted to experiment with a softer, more fluid approach to his cuts. As a result, its asymmetrical draping gave a new feel to classic ideas – suits, ball gowns. “It was all about movement, which is what many customers are asking for,” he said. “They don’t want a stiff dress that doesn’t do anything anymore.” Still, he couldn't shake a little extravagance: the big ruffled skirts, feathered shoulder embellishments, and touches of tulle sometimes seemed unnecessary.
Although Siriano said he didn't specifically have the new Dune When designing, it's hard not to imagine Zendaya wearing some of her most notable evening gowns, which would be perfect for her current press tour. Her sunset-striped Lurex dress, draped off the shoulder, begged to be worn to a Hollywood premiere, as did her strapless column dress in a shimmering tangerine color, complete with bodice draped and corseted. But it was less about dressing the stars this season, he said, and more about creating silhouettes that would flatter a variety of bodies. (Siriano is one of the few New York designers to systematically consider size diversity.) “I wanted to show that any body can look beautiful in a beautiful piece,” he said. He also intended to transport the clothes. “I just wanted people to feel like they were in another world for 20 minutes,” he said. “Whatever world you dream of!” »