Typically, fashion shows feature models walking the runway wearing clothes from a designer's latest collection. However, at the Philip Lim 3.1 show at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024, the models were nowhere to be seen. Instead, in one room, the new collection of utility pieces (a cargo tracksuit, a peplum denim jacket, and versatile knit pants) hung on shelves while a board of lookbook photos sat on an adjacent wall.
In another room, however, there was a story that wasn't limited to the clothes. Pictures and clothing hanging from the ceiling told the story of life in New York. The instillation, entitled INTERSECTIONS had “four vignettes of life as seen by a multi-generational group of AAPI creatives, including Dong-Ping Wong of Food Architects, photographer Jiro Konami, composer Sugar Vendil, graphic design studio Social Species, and original verse young poets: Fatima Ahmad, Jessica Kim, Vanessa Niu and Serena Yang,” according to a press release.
In an interview on the show, Lim said Teen Vogue that this season was about community. “One of our mandates is to use our platform for a greater community,” he said. “It's more of an experience and an art installation aimed at capturing the energy of New York City and, with that, [season] we wanted to go back to that concept and involve a broader creative community – our community – and work with poets, art directors, composers, set designers and really showcase their work too. He explained that they gave a color palette and collection, which he said are about “how we live, how we work, how we love and how we play”, and let the artists “make their work to prepare the ground.”
For the collection itself, Lim explained that the collection was also about chaotic life in the city. Read: cargo pants. “Cargo pockets aren’t just for fun,” he joked, noting that New Yorkers actually need those deep pockets. In the past, the brand has worked on sustainable innovations in its designs: a sequin dress made from seaweed is currently on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. This season, he worked with “undyed” (AKA undyed) recycled yarn for some jackets.