For Hanako Maeda, opposites attract. “I feel like throughout this collection you see this dichotomy between something more romantic and something more minimal, between constructed fabrics and soft fabrics,” said the creative director of Adeam , based in New York and Tokyo, from his studio. in Ginza. A knit top was layered beneath a leather bustier, a denim skirt featured asymmetrical panels of pleated chiffon, and a peek-a-boo black lace turtleneck peeked out from a gap in a crisp white brogue. Meanwhile, the traditionally masculine suit was given a flirty, feminine twist via an off-the-shoulder jacket with dangling belted straps.
While for pre-fall Maeda adopted a cheerful color palette of yellow, green and blue inspired by the Amalfi Coast, this collection returned to her signature muted hues. Of course, part of this was due to the season: these clothes are intended to be worn in fall and winter by its devoted urban customers. (New Yorkers love their blacks and grays.) Yet it goes beyond utilitarian practicality: Maeda believes that the detailed craftsmanship of the clothes is best showcased when the silhouettes are the focal point. 'attention. “I feel like when you have a lot of prints or bright colors, sometimes it's hard to see the details of the garment,” she said. “I really wanted the color palette to be subdued but play more with textures.” An all-black look, for example, featured vegan leather as well as matte fabric. These subtle, tactical details are much more obvious to the wearer when in monochrome. “You really see the handwork of the people who create and sew the pieces,” Maeda said.
This was another goal of Maeda: to show the meticulous work of Japanese artisans. Adeam manufactures everything in Japan. They have an in-house workshop full of pattern makers and seamstresses, and their factories are in the Kanto region, just outside of Tokyo. “I really wanted to focus on this idea of Japanese craftsmanship and highlight it,” she said. A number of costumes showed the precision of their tailoring.
For the selected evening pieces, Maeda played more with color. A chiffon suit was cherry red; the dresses were brown and shimmering powder blue. It might be difficult to connect the more streamlined, sharp looks with these flashy, feminine pieces, no matter how beautiful they are. But even the most dedicated minimalists like to change shades sometimes.
Alongside her womenswear collection, Maeda has also released the latest pieces for Ichi, her gender-neutral line. They're meant to be workhorses that become the backbone of everyday dressing: think classic zip-up jackets in beige and black, oversized sweater vests and wrap-around scarves. Whether you want to go for a style statement or just a style staple, Maeda has something for you.