Haven't you heard? Brown is the new black.
In case you didn't notice while browsing this lookbook, Nili Lotan “feels brunette.” The shade has been trending since late last year, taking the spotlight in spring collections. But Lotan is not necessarily the type to bow to passing trends. She has been working in this field for over four decades, two of them independently. Over time, she has collected an infinite number of vintage reference pieces, most dating from the 70s, which she revisits at the start of each season. This time, the item that caught her attention the most was a chocolate brown coat with gold buttons.
“I looked at it and realized I don’t really have a brown coat in my closet, let alone one with gold buttons,” Lotan said at a preview. Nili Lotan, the brand, is intrinsic to Nili Lotan, the woman. He is a designer who, every season, looks at what She what she needs and would like to have in her wardrobe: it's an exercise that influences the way she puts together her collections and, 21 years later, it hasn't failed her yet.
There were buttery brown leathers and brown corduroys, tight brown slips and silky brown blouses. Lotan cut exquisitely tailored jackets and coats in brown, herringbone and checked tweeds. She's made barn jackets in coated canvas and even suede (the MVP of this line), and paired all of these items with her best-selling jeans.
There was a British side to the whole affair, but filtered through Lotan's all-American lens: see the barn jackets, cut to the waist, “she's not going to the fields, she's going to work,” a declared the creator. Think of Meghan Markle if she hung out at Balmoral and wore Ralph Lauren jeans and polo shirts under plush Fair Isle knits and a Barbour jacket. “Brown sent me into this British countryside dream,” Nolan said. She's not alone: Based on previews and moodboards, you'll be seeing a lot of chevrons, houndstooth, and Prince of Wales checks this New York Fashion Week. What helped Nolan hit the mark, however, was that she brought her take on this recurring fantasy back to the United States.