Tory Burch's first store opened 20 years ago last week; this marked the beginning of his brand. A series of profiles scheduled for this milestone have appeared in the media. In her interview with this publication, she said: “I think I'm more willing to explore my vulnerability now than I ever have been before – vulnerability from a design perspective and taking risks. »
She gathered us at the New York Public Library tonight and sent us a parade full of experiences. Although always anchored in the practical side, it leaves its comfort zone, both in terms of manufacturing, which it strives to keep light, and in terms of shapes, refined and geometric, or as effusive as pompoms. . The word risk is too strong for that, but there was audacity in what Burch was doing. Let's just say she's come a long way from the crystal-embellished tunics and people-pleasing Reva flats that were her first hits.
She made her ambitions clear from the first look, a sequined fringed dress that looked conventional from the waist up, but was shaped by gluing and threading through the skirt so that it retained the trapezoidal shape of 'a lampshade. She then applied the same technique to a pair of sleeveless top and skirt combinations, the first in a brown faux croc and the second in a beige jacquard woven with the word “sublime.” “I was thinking, 'How to enhance the everyday,'” she said backstage.
Other investigations weren't as extreme, but nonetheless signaled a desire to be playful, like the shiny tinsel coats (replacing, in a sense, the fur coats of yore) and the trio of smocked taffeta dresses of nylon printed with polka dots. dots and four-leaf clovers that were modeled on shower caps, among other things. During a colorless week, Buch had bright orange and sky blue lampshade skirts, plus all sorts of shiny surfaces, including an intriguing distressed vinyl that would wrinkle and fade as 'it would be worn, which she used for bodysuits.
She also played it straight, with men's pants fitted at the sides with Velcro fasteners and thin jackets zipped down the front, but the story here was her appetite for bizarre gestures. This is a new side of Burch that we see. “I feel like in some ways we’re just getting started,” she said during our interview. “I don’t really look at the last 20 years, I look at it as a journey, but I feel like we’re just starting out where I want to be.”